CHULU EAST PEAK (ALPINE STYLE)

CHULU EAST PEAK (ALPINE STYLE)

Country

Nepal

Level

hard

Duration

17 Days

Altitude

6426 M

Group Size

1-10

Best Season

Spring and Autumn

mountain

Highlights

  • Alpine-style summit attempt on Chulu East (6,426 m) with minimal fixed camps.

  • Hands-on glacier and technical climbing training above 5,600 m.

  • Ascend through Annapurna and Manang high alpine terrain with panoramic views.

  • Practice ice climbing, crampon techniques, rope management, and summit strategies.

  • Acclimatize gradually with Base Camp and High Camp rotations.

  • Professional guides maintain a 1:2 ratio for personal safety and support.

  • Opportunity to experience remote Annapurna highlands in a less-trekked corridor.

  • Certificate ceremony and farewell dinner celebrating the expedition's success.

Overview

Chulu East, rising to 6,426 m in the Annapurna region, offers a pure alpine-style climbing experience. This expedition is designed for climbers seeking technical challenges in a minimalist, lightweight approach, carrying all equipment with limited support for a true alpine experience.

The journey begins in Kathmandu, moving along scenic mountain roads to Chame and Ngawal. Gradual trekking days and acclimatization hikes allow your body to adjust while enjoying views of Annapurna, Manaslu, and surrounding peaks. At Base Camp, climbers prepare tents, review climbing techniques, and train on nearby glaciers.

From High Camp, climbers make their alpine-style summit attempt, returning the same day to camp. This style prioritizes speed, skill, and self-sufficiency, providing a thrilling and rewarding mountaineering experience. On return, trekkers descend to Ngawal and drive back to Kathmandu for celebration and closure.

 

Itinerary

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer to your hotel. Rest and relax after the journey. In the evening, enjoy the vibrant streets of Thamel or prepare gear for the expedition. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Preparation day with orientation and detailed expedition briefing. Conduct a full gear check, review climbing techniques, safety protocols, and discuss the alpine-style approach. Evening free for rest and final personal preparations. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Scenic drive along mountain roads, terraced hills, and rivers. Pass through remote villages and enjoy panoramic Annapurna views. Arrive in Chame by evening for overnight stay. Rest and prepare for higher elevation drive the next day.

Short drive into higher valleys. Settle into Ngawal and enjoy breathtaking views of surrounding peaks. Prepare for acclimatization hikes and alpine training. Overnight in a local lodge with hot meals and rest.

Hike to a nearby hill (4,000–4,200 m) for acclimatization. Practice basic alpine movement techniques and glacier approaches. Hydrate well, enjoy mountain scenery, and prepare for trek to Base Camp. Overnight in Ngawal.

Gradual ascent through rocky alpine terrain. Set up tents at Base Camp and review glacier travel techniques. Rest, acclimatize, and enjoy the dramatic mountain surroundings. Prepare gear for High Camp move.

Steep climb to High Camp. Rest, hydrate, and perform short training exercises. Review rope management, ice axe, and crampon skills in preparation for higher-altitude glacier training. Overnight at High Camp.

Practice alpine and glacier techniques: ice climbing, fixed lines, crampon and axe drills, and rope management. Prepare thoroughly for the summit push. Train safely on glacier terrain with guides, building confidence and stamina. Overnight rotations at High Camp or Base Camp.

Ascend gradually to Camp 1. Focus on acclimatization, route inspection, and final summit preparation. Review equipment and climbing strategies. Overnight at Camp 1.

Early morning alpine-style summit attempt. Enjoy breathtaking views of Annapurna, Manaslu, and surrounding peaks. After a successful summit, descend safely to High Camp for rest. Overnight at High Camp.

Descend through rocky and alpine terrain back to Ngawal. Enjoy hot showers and hearty meals after technical climbing. Rest and celebrate progress with fellow climbers. Overnight in Ngawal.

Return via scenic mountain roads, passing villages and terraced landscapes. Arrive in Kathmandu by evening. Transfer to the hotel and relax after the long journey.

Celebrate the expedition’s success with a certificate handover and closing dinner. Share memories, photos, and stories of the Chulu East summit. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international flight home, concluding the unforgettable alpine-style Chulu East expedition.

Includes

Airport pick-up & drop-off
4-night hotel in Kathmandu (B&B)
All ground transportation
3 meals/day during trek & training with tea/coffee
Instructor 1:2 ratio
Porter support
AltiNepal duffel bag & cap
All necessary permits
First aid kits
Oxygen and regulator mask (available for a nominal fee if used)
High-altitude tents (2 per tent)
High-altitude insurance for Nepali staff (medical, accident, evacuation)
Group climbing gear: ropes, ice screws, snow bars, cooking pots, fuel, tents

Excludes

International airfare
Nepal visa fees
Personal travel & high-altitude insurance
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Personal climbing gear
Personal expenses: phone, internet, laundry, alcoholic drinks
Tips for guides and porters

Notes

note
Climbing Grade: Technical alpine; glacier and ice climbing.
note
Experience Required: Prior 5,500–6,000 m climbing experience recommended.
note
Season: March–May / September–November.
note
Weather: Cold nights, snow possible above 5,000 m.
note
Acclimatization: Built-in training days and rotations for safe ascent.
note
Safety: Oxygen, first aid, satellite communication, 1:2 guide ratio.
note
Sustainability: “Leave No Trace” policy; fair employment of local staff.

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